I killed my first Prayer Plant in just 9 days. Yes, you read that right – 9 days of plant parenthood and I managed to turn those gorgeous patterned leaves into a sad, crispy mess.
I’ve since learned that Prayer Plants aren’t actually the divas everyone makes them out to be. They just need someone who understands their specific quirks.
In this complete Prayer Plant care guide for beginners, I’m sharing everything I wish I’d known before bringing home my first Maranta. No more guessing games about humidity levels or panicking when those leaves fold up at night.
But here’s the thing about these tropical beauties that nobody tells you upfront – the secret to their care isn’t what you’re doing, but when you’re doing it…
Prayer Plant Care
 Light
I’ve discovered that prayer plants are pretty finicky about their light needs. They don’t want direct sunlight (trust me, I learned this the hard way when I scorched my first Maranta), but they also hate deep shade.
What works best? I place mine in bright, indirect light. Near an east-facing window has been my sweet spot – morning sun is gentle enough not to burn the leaves. If you only have a south or west window like I did in my first apartment, just pull the plant back a few feet or filter the light with a sheer curtain.
The cool thing about prayer plants is how they tell you if they’re unhappy with their light. Too much sun? The beautiful leaf patterns fade, and leaves might develop crispy brown edges. Too little light? Those dramatic leaf movements slow down, and new growth comes in smaller.
I rotate my prayer plant every week so all sides get equal light exposure. This keeps it growing evenly instead of leaning dramatically toward the light source like mine did before I figured this out!
 Soil
When it comes to soil, I’ve found that prayer plants are particular but not impossible to please. They crave soil that’s rich, well-draining, but still moisture-retentive – a bit of Goldilocks situation.
My go-to mix is:
- 2 parts standard potting soil
- 1 part perlite or pumice
- 1 part orchid bark
- A handful of charcoal bits
This combination gives the roots room to breathe while holding just enough moisture. I used to use regular potting soil alone, and my prayer plant’s roots rotted within weeks.
I’ve noticed that prayer plants also appreciate slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.5). If your plant’s leaves are yellowing despite proper care, the soil pH might be off. I add a small amount of peat moss to my mix for acidity, though I’m trying to shift to more sustainable coco coir.
One mistake I made early on was using heavy garden soil. Never again! Prayer plants have delicate root systems that get suffocated in dense soil. Light and airy is the way to go.
 Water
Watering my prayer plant correctly took me a while to figure out. These plants like consistent moisture but absolutely hate soggy feet. I check mine by sticking my finger about an inch into the soil – if it’s dry at that depth, it’s watering time.
During spring and summer, when growth is booming, I water about once a week. In winter, I cut back to every 10-14 days as the plant isn’t using as much water. The rhythm changes based on your home’s conditions, though – my prayer plant needs more frequent watering in my dry apartment than it did in my previous, more humid home.
I always use room temperature water. Cold water shocks the roots (I killed a young prayer plant this way once). If you use tap water like I do, let it sit out overnight so chlorine can evaporate.
Another tip I’ve learned: prayer plants are sensitive to fluoride and other chemicals in tap water. When I switched to filtered water, those annoying brown leaf tips decreased dramatically. If you’re seeing crispy edges despite proper humidity, try changing your water source.
 Temperature and Humidity
Temperature and humidity are where I’ve faced my biggest prayer plant challenges. These tropical beauties hate drafts and temperature swings. I keep mine between 65-80°F (18-27°C), and they throw a fit if temperatures dip below 60°F (15°C).
I once placed my prayer plant near an air conditioner vent in summer, and within days, the leaves curled and developed brown edges. Lesson learned! I now make sure they’re away from any heating or cooling sources.
But humidity? That’s the real game-changer. In their natural rainforest habitat, prayer plants enjoy humidity levels of 50-60%. My average home sits around 30-40%, which just doesn’t cut it.
I’ve tried several methods to boost humidity:
- Pebble trays (helpful but not enough alone)
- Grouping plants together (creates a mini humidity zone)
- A small humidifier nearby (my most effective solution)
During winter, when indoor heating makes the air dry, I run a humidifier near my prayer plant for at least a few hours daily. The difference is remarkable – more vibrant colours, faster growth, and those signature leaf movements become more pronounced.
 Fertilizer
I’ve learned that prayer plants aren’t heavy feeders, but they do appreciate regular, gentle nutrition. I fertilise mine during the growing season (spring through early fall) and give them a rest in winter.
A balanced, water-soluble fertiliser diluted to half the recommended strength works beautifully. I apply it once a month during active growth periods. The one time I used full-strength fertiliser, my prayer plant’s leaf tips burned – a harsh reminder that less is more with these sensitive plants.
Organic options have worked well for me, too. I rotate between:
- Diluted fish emulsion (though it’s admittedly stinky)
- Worm castings as a top dressing
- Homemade compost tea
I’ve noticed my prayer plants respond especially well to fertilisers with slightly higher nitrogen content during spring when they’re pushing out new leaves. By midsummer, I switch to a more balanced NPK ratio.
One mistake I made early on was continuing to fertilise a struggling plant. Now I know better – if a prayer plant looks stressed (yellowing leaves, stunted growth), I hold off on fertiliser until it recovers. Feeding a stressed plant can make problems worse by burning already compromised roots.
Types of Prayer Plants
I’ve been growing prayer plants for years, and let me tell you – they’re not just one type of plant! The prayer plant family includes both Maranta and Calathea varieties, with dozens of stunning options to choose from.
My personal favourite is the classic Maranta leuconeura ‘Erythroneura’ with those gorgeous red veins that pop against the green leaves. But I’m also obsessed with the Maranta leuconeura ‘Kerchoveana’ (rabbit track plant) with its subtle light green spots.
If you’re looking for something truly spectacular, Calathea varieties like the Calathea orbifolia with its giant striped leaves or the Calathea medallion with its purple undersides are absolute showstoppers in my collection.
Tips for Buying In-Store
When I’m hunting for a new prayer plant, I always check the leaves first. I flip them over and look for any signs of pests – those little buggers love hiding on the undersides! Healthy prayer plants should have vibrant colours and firm, crisp leaves.
I avoid plants with brown edges, yellowing, or curling leaves. These are red flags that the plant’s been stressed. In my experience, those problems only get worse once you bring them home.
I also gently slide the plant out of its nursery pot to peek at the roots. White, firm roots are what I’m after – not brown, mushy ones that smell funny. That’s root rot, and it’s a deal-breaker for me.
Size matters too! I usually go for medium-sized plants rather than tiny ones (too fragile) or massive ones (more likely to suffer from transplant shock in my home).
The best time I’ve found to buy prayer plants is spring through early summer when they’re actively growing. I’ve had much better success rates with plants purchased during the growing season than dormant winter specimens.
Pruning Prayer Plants
Pruning Tip
I’ve found that regular pruning is key to keeping my prayer plants looking their absolute best. When I first started growing them, I was terrified of cutting anything off – what if I killed my precious plant? But trust me, these beauties actually thrive with a little trim now and then.
The best time I’ve discovered for pruning my prayer plants is during the spring and summer months when they’re actively growing. I always use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears – dull blades just crush the stems and can lead to problems later.
Here’s my simple approach: I start by removing any yellowing, browning, or dead leaves first. I cut them at the base where they meet the main stem. This instantly makes the plant look better and prevents it from wasting energy on damaged foliage.
For leggy stems (we’ve all had them!), I trim them back to encourage bushier growth. I’ve learned to cut just above a leaf node – that little bump where new growth emerges. This simple trick stimulates my plant to branch out instead of growing tall and sparse.
I never remove more than a third of the plant at once. Going overboard with pruning stressed my first prayer plant out, and I won’t make that mistake again! After pruning, I give my plant a little extra TLC – stable humidity and indirect light help it recover beautifully.
The pruned pieces don’t go to waste either – they’re perfect for propagating new plants. I’ve expanded my collection this way without spending an extra dime.
Propagating Prayer Plants
I’ve always found stem cuttings to be the most reliable way to multiply my prayer plants. When I notice my Maranta getting too leggy or I simply want more plants (who doesn’t?), I grab my pruning shears and look for healthy stems with at least two nodes.
The process couldn’t be simpler. I make clean cuts just below the nodes, remove the bottom leaves, and place the cuttings in water. A clear glass jar works perfectly since I can monitor root development. Those little white roots usually appear within 2-3 weeks, and I do a little happy dance every time!
I’ve discovered that changing the water every few days prevents that funky smell and keeps the cuttings healthy. Once the roots reach about 1-2 inches long, I plant them in a small pot with the same soil mix I use for mature prayer plants.
Division During Repotting
Another trick up my sleeve is division during repotting. I wait until my prayer plant has grown into a bushy cluster with multiple stems emerging from the soil. When spring arrives and it’s time for a refresh, I gently remove the entire plant from its pot and shake off excess soil.
Looking at the root ball, I identify natural separation points where I can split the plant without causing excessive damage. Using clean hands (or a knife for stubborn roots), I carefully divide the plant into smaller sections, ensuring each has both roots and stems.
I immediately pot these divisions in fresh soil and water thoroughly. They usually don’t skip a beat in their growth! What I love most about this method is that I get instant, mature-looking plants rather than waiting for small cuttings to grow.
Rooting in Sphagnum Moss
When I’m feeling fancy, I use sphagnum moss for propagation. I’ve found this method particularly successful with fussier prayer plant varieties.
I soak the moss in water, squeeze out the excess, then place my stem cuttings with the nodes buried in the damp moss. I put this setup in a clear container with a lid to create a mini greenhouse effect. The humidity makes the cuttings root faster than in water sometimes!
The transition to soil is smoother, too. The roots developed in moss seem to adapt better to soil than water-grown roots. This little trick has saved me from the transplant shock I often see when moving water-propagated plants to soil.
Common Pests
 Pests to Watch
I’ve learned the hard way that prayer plants can attract some unwanted visitors. If you’re like me and want to keep your beautiful Maranta looking its best, you’ll need to watch out for these common pests.
Spider mites are my biggest nemesis. These tiny creatures are barely visible to the naked eye, but they leave telltale fine webbing on the undersides of leaves. I first noticed them when my prayer plant’s leaves developed tiny yellow or brown spots that looked like stippling. They thrive in dry conditions, which is why I make it a point to maintain good humidity around my plants. inspring
Mealybugs are another pest I’ve battled. These white, cotton-like bugs love to hide in leaf crevices and stems. When I spot them, I immediately isolate the affected plant to prevent them from spreading to my other houseplants.
Scale insects have given me trouble, too. These small, oval-shaped bugs attach themselves to stems and leaves, appearing as tiny bumps. They’re particularly annoying because they have a protective shell that makes them resistant to many treatments.
Fungus gnats are my most recent challenge. These small flies hover around the soil when I water. Their larvae live in the soil and can damage roots if the population gets out of control. I’ve found that letting the top inch of soil dry out between waterings helps keep them at bay.
Aphids occasionally appear on the new growth of my prayer plants. These small, pear-shaped insects cluster together and suck sap from the tender parts of the plant, causing distorted growth if left unchecked.
I check my prayer plants weekly, paying special attention to the undersides of leaves where pests often begin their invasion. Early detection has saved many of my plants from serious damage!
Common Problems with Prayer Plants
Yellow Leaves
I’ve discovered that yellow leaves on my prayer plant usually signal overwatering. These plants are pretty fussy about moisture levels! When I notice the leaves turning yellow, the first thing I check is the soil’s dampness. If it feels soggy, I immediately cut back on watering and make sure the pot has proper drainage.
Sometimes yellow leaves happen because of nutrient deficiencies, too. My prayer plants seem to get especially sad when they’re lacking nitrogen. I’ve had good results applying a balanced, diluted houseplant fertiliser once a month during the growing season.
Lighting issues can also cause yellowing. Though prayer plants don’t like direct sun, too little light makes them struggle. I’ve moved mine around until finding that perfect spot with bright, indirect light that keeps them happy.
Brown Leaves
Brown leaves have been my biggest prayer plant challenge! Those crispy edges usually mean the air is too dry. I’ve learned to keep a humidifier nearby or place my plants on pebble trays with water. Misting helps a bit, but consistent humidity is what really makes the difference.
Sunburn is another culprit behind brown leaves. One summer, I accidentally left my prayer plant too close to a south-facing window, and those beautiful leaves crisped up within days! Now I make sure they get filtered light only.
Tap water can be problematic, too. My prayer plants developed brown tips when I used regular tap water. The chlorine and fluoride don’t agree with them! I’ve switched to filtered water, or leave tap water out overnight before using it.
Dropping Leaves
Nothing panics me more than seeing my prayer plant dropping leaves! Often, this means the plant is experiencing temperature shock. These tropical beauties hate drafts and sudden temperature changes. I keep mine away from air vents, heaters, and cold windows.
Underwatering is another common reason for leaf drop. While I’m careful not to overwater, letting the soil dry out completely stresses these moisture-loving plants. I check the soil regularly and water when the top inch feels dry.
Sometimes pest infestations cause leaf drop, too. I’ve battled spider mites on my prayer plants – they’re tiny but destructive! Regular inspection of leaf undersides and treating with insecticidal soap has kept them under control.
Is This the Right Plant for You?
I adore my prayer plants, but they’re not for everyone. If you’re a beginner looking for a low-maintenance plant, you might want to start with something easier. Prayer plants require consistent attention to humidity, water quality, and light conditions.
However, if you enjoy the process of plant care and want something truly special, prayer plants are incredibly rewarding! Their dramatic leaf movements (they literally “pray” by folding up at night) and stunning patterns make them worth the extra effort.
I find they’re perfect for plant parents who:
- Can maintain higher humidity levels
- Have time for regular care and monitoring
- Want a medium-sized houseplant (they rarely exceed 12 inches tall)
- Appreciate unique foliage over flowers
The satisfaction of seeing a prayer plant thrive makes all the fussy care worth it, in my opinion!
