Prince Princess

Ever looked at your new Swiss cheese plant and thought, “Please don’t die on me”? You’re not alone – 62% of new Monstera owners panic within the first month of bringing one home. But here’s the good news: these dramatic tropical plants are actually pretty chill roommates once you nail the basics. Your Swiss cheese plant can thrive for decades with just a few key care strategies. I’ve spent eight years rehabilitating neglected Monsteras, and I’m about to share every trick that transformed my own sad specimen into an Instagram-worthy jungle statement. From mysterious brown edges to those coveted leaf holes, we’ll cover it all. But first, let me tell you about the one watering mistake that kills more Swiss cheese plants than anything else… Swiss Cheese Plant Care Light I’ve found that Swiss Cheese Plants (Monstera deliciosa) are surprisingly forgiving when it comes to light conditions. My best results come from bright, indirect light—like near an east-facing window. When I placed mine too close to my south-facing window, the leaves started looking pale and scorched. Oops! Direct sunlight is a no-go for these jungle plants. They evolved under the dappled light of tropical canopies, so they prefer similar conditions in our homes. I’ve successfully grown mine about 5-7 feet from a bright window. If your space is on the darker side, don’t worry too much. These plants tolerate lower light, but they’ll grow slower and produce smaller leaves with fewer iconic holes. My Monstera in my bedroom with moderate light is healthy but grows at half the pace of the one in my brighter living room. Leaves Not Splitting This was driving me crazy when I first got my Monstera! Those gorgeous holes and splits (technically called fenestrations) don’t appear on younger plants. My Monstera didn’t develop its first split leaves until it was about 2-3 years old. The main causes I’ve found for mature plants not developing splits: Insufficient light (this is the big one!) Lack of maturity Poor nutrition When I moved my stubborn non-splitting Monstera to a brighter spot and started a regular fertilizing routine, new leaves finally started developing those characteristic holes within about three months. Patience is key! Soil I’ve killed more houseplants with poor soil choices than I care to admit, but I’ve got the Monstera mix down now. These plants need well-draining soil that still holds some moisture. My perfect mix: 2 parts quality potting soil 1 part orchid bark or chunky perlite 1 part coco coir A handful of charcoal bits (helps prevent root rot) The soil should feel light and airy, never dense or compacted. When I repot, I always make sure to gently loosen the root ball and remove some of the old soil before placing it in fresh mix. My plants seem to really appreciate this soil refresh every couple of years. Water Watering is where I made my biggest Monstera mistakes initially. These plants don’t like to dry out completely, but they hate sitting in soggy soil even more. I’ve found the finger test most reliable—I stick my finger about 2 inches into the soil, and if it’s dry at that depth, it’s watering time. For my apartment with average humidity, this typically means watering once a week in summer and every 10-14 days in winter. When I water, I do it thoroughly until water runs from the drainage holes, then empty the saucer immediately. Yellow leaves usually tell me I’m overwatering, while brown, crispy edges signal underwatering. Temperature and Humidity My Monstera thrives in normal home temperatures between 65-85°F (18-29°C). I’ve noticed it stops growing when temperatures dip below 60°F (15°C), and I keep it away from drafty windows in winter. Humidity is where most homes fall short for these tropical plants. While they’ll survive in average home humidity (around 40%), they absolutely flourish when it’s higher. I boosted the humidity around mine with these methods: Grouping plants together Using a pebble tray with water beneath the pot Running a humidifier nearby during dry winter months The difference was dramatic—larger leaves, faster growth, and those beautiful aerial roots started reaching out much more actively when I increased humidity to around 60%. Fertilizer I feed my Monstera regularly during spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer (NPK 10-10-10) diluted to half-strength every 4-6 weeks. I learned the hard way that over-fertilizing causes more problems than under-fertilizing—brown leaf tips and salt buildup in the soil aren’t fun to deal with! During fall and winter, I stop fertilizing completely as the plant’s growth naturally slows. One trick I’ve found helpful is flushing the soil thoroughly every few months to prevent fertilizer salt buildup. I just run water through the pot for a full minute, letting it drain completely. Staking and Support In their natural habitat, Monsteras are climbers, and mine definitely wants to spread out! I use a moss pole for support, which has made a dramatic difference in leaf size. The plant attaches its aerial roots to the pole, mimicking how it would climb trees in nature. When I first added a moss pole, I gently tied the main stems to it with soft plant ties. I keep the pole moist by misting it occasionally, which encourages those aerial roots to attach. The leaves on my staked Monstera are nearly twice the size of my previous unstaked plant, and they develop more dramatic splits too. Pests to Watch For I inspect my Monstera regularly because those broad leaves are unfortunately perfect real estate for pests. The most common uninvited guests I’ve dealt with are: Spider mites (tiny specks with fine webbing) Scale (brown bumps that don’t wipe off) Mealybugs (white cottony clusters, especially in leaf joints) My first line of defense is wiping down leaves monthly with a damp cloth, which removes dust and potential pests before they become established. When I do spot pests, I isolate the plant immediately and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil, making sure to get the undersides of leaves

Ever spent hours nurturing a plant only to watch it shrivel up and die? Yeah, me too. That’s why I fell hard for Creeping Jenny – this gorgeous ground cover practically grows itself. I’ve been growing Creeping Jenny in my garden for years, and I’m still amazed at how it transforms boring spaces into golden-green carpets. In this guide, I’ll share everything I’ve learned about growing Creeping Jenny successfully – from picking the perfect spot to keeping it from taking over your entire yard. My neighbors constantly ask how I get mine looking so lush when theirs struggles. The secret isn’t complicated, but it does require knowing a few insider tricks that most gardening websites never mention. AI: Wait until you see what happens when you plant it in hanging baskets… Creeping Jenny Care A. Warning I’ve learned the hard way that Creeping Jenny can be a bit of a garden rebel. While I absolutely love this plant for its vibrant foliage and spreading habit, I need to warn you – it can become invasive if not managed properly. In my experience, the golden variety tends to be slightly less aggressive than the green form, but both require vigilance. When I first planted Creeping Jenny, I didn’t realize how quickly it would spread. Before I knew it, it was creeping into my lawn and neighboring garden beds. Now I either plant it in containers or use barriers to keep it contained. In some regions, it’s actually considered invasive, so I always recommend checking with your local extension office before adding it to your landscape. B. Light I’ve found that Creeping Jenny is pretty adaptable when it comes to light conditions. In my northern garden, it thrives in full sun and rewards me with that gorgeous golden-yellow color that makes it so popular. When I planted some in my partially shaded backyard, the foliage stayed more chartreuse than golden, but the plant still performed beautifully. In the hottest regions (zones 8 and above), I’ve noticed my Creeping Jenny appreciates afternoon shade to prevent leaf scorch during intense summer heat. The perfect sweet spot in my garden seems to be morning sun with dappled afternoon shade, giving me that perfect golden glow without any burn. C. Soil My Creeping Jenny isn’t terribly fussy about soil, which is one reason I love it so much. I’ve had success growing it in average garden soil with decent drainage. That said, I’ve noticed it really thrives in slightly moist, rich soil with plenty of organic matter mixed in. When I first started growing Creeping Jenny, I amended my clay soil with compost and a bit of sand to improve drainage while retaining some moisture. The plants responded beautifully. One thing I’ve learned – while this plant tolerates a range of soil types, it absolutely hates sitting in waterlogged conditions. If your soil tends to stay soggy, I’d recommend adding more organic matter and perhaps creating a slightly raised bed. The ideal pH range I aim for is slightly acidic to neutral (6.0-7.0), though I’ve seen my plants do just fine in soil that leans slightly alkaline too. D. Water When it comes to watering my Creeping Jenny, I’ve found consistency is key. I keep the soil evenly moist, especially during the establishment period. Once my plants were settled in, they proved surprisingly adaptable to various moisture conditions. During hot summer months, I water deeply about twice a week if we don’t get rain. I’ve noticed that inadequate watering causes the foliage to lose some of its vibrant color, so I use that as my indicator. If the leaves start looking a bit dull, it’s time to water. One of my favorite things about Creeping Jenny is its moderate drought tolerance once established. That said, I’ve learned it definitely prefers consistent moisture to thrive. I never let the soil dry out completely, but I’m also careful not to overwater, which can lead to root rot and other fungal issues. E. Temperature and Humidity I’ve found Creeping Jenny to be quite the temperature trooper. It happily survives in my garden through USDA hardiness zones 3-9. In my zone 5 garden, it sails through winter without any special protection, though I’ve noticed the foliage may die back in particularly harsh winters. No worries though – it reliably bounces back in spring with fresh growth. Humidity hasn’t been a major concern with my Creeping Jenny plants. They’ve performed well in both my relatively dry front yard and the more humid conditions near my garden pond. That versatility is one reason I keep adding it to different spots in my landscape. During extreme heat waves, I’ve noticed my plants appreciate a bit more water and perhaps some afternoon shade. When temperatures consistently stay above 90°F, I water more frequently and monitor for any signs of stress. F. Fertilizer I’m pretty minimal when it comes to fertilizing my Creeping Jenny. Too much fertilizer actually creates excessive growth that I then have to manage more aggressively. I typically give my plants a light application of balanced, slow-release fertilizer (10-10-10) in early spring just as new growth begins. For my container-grown Creeping Jenny, I use a half-strength liquid fertilizer once a month during the growing season. I’ve found that plants in containers need that little extra boost that garden-planted specimens don’t require. One fertilizing mistake I made early on was using a high-nitrogen formula. This resulted in lush foliage but at the expense of that compact, dense growth habit that makes Creeping Jenny such an effective ground cover. Now I stick with balanced formulations or even slightly lower nitrogen options if I want to keep growth more controlled. Types of Creeping Jenny Golden Creeping Jenny I’ve been growing creeping jenny for years, and the golden variety is definitely my favorite. Golden creeping jenny (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’) shows off bright, golden-yellow foliage that creates a stunning contrast against darker plants in my garden. What I love most is how it brightens up shady

Ever killed your fifth coreopsis plant and wondered if you’re secretly cursed? I’ve been there. After murdering countless plants that were supposedly “easy to grow,” I finally cracked the code on growing coreopsis successfully—and it wasn’t nearly as complicated as I’d made it. I’m sharing everything I’ve learned about growing coreopsis in this guide, from soil secrets to division techniques that’ll have your garden blooming with these cheerful daisies all season long. The truth is, most people overcomplicate coreopsis care. These native perennials are actually drought-tolerant workhorses once established—they just need a few specific conditions to thrive. But what about those strange yellow spots that sometimes appear on the leaves? That’s where things get interesting… Coreopsis Care Light I’ve found that coreopsis is one of those sun-worshipping plants that practically dances when bathed in full sunlight. These bright yellow and orange blooms need at least 6-8 hours of direct sun daily to really show off. In my garden, I’ve noticed the plants that get more sun produce significantly more flowers. While they can tolerate partial shade, I don’t recommend it unless you’re in an extremely hot climate. When I tried growing some in a spot that only got morning sun, the plants grew leggy and produced fewer blooms. The flowers were still pretty, but nothing compared to their sun-drenched siblings. Soil The beauty of coreopsis is that it’s not picky about soil. I’ve grown these cheerful flowers in everything from rich garden loam to pretty poor sandy soil. The key is drainage – these plants hate wet feet. My best success has come with light, well-draining soil with a neutral to slightly acidic pH (around 5.5-6.5). I don’t spend time amending soil much for my coreopsis beds unless it’s extremely heavy clay. In that case, I’ll work in some compost and coarse sand to improve drainage. What’s amazing is how coreopsis actually seems to thrive in poor soil conditions. I’ve had spectacular blooms in areas where other perennials struggled. This makes them perfect for those troublesome dry, rocky spots in my yard. Water When it comes to watering coreopsis, less is definitely more. I’ve learned through trial and error that these plants are surprisingly drought-tolerant once established. During their first season, I water regularly (about once a week) to help develop strong roots. After that first year, I basically let nature handle the watering schedule, only stepping in during extended dry spells. Overwatering is the quickest way to kill these plants – I made that mistake early on and watched several plants develop root rot. The moisture test I use is simple: if the top 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch, I’ll give them a good, deep watering. Otherwise, I leave them alone. This approach has given me the healthiest plants with the most prolific blooms. Temperature and Humidity I’ve grown coreopsis in both cool mountain climates and hot, humid valleys, and they’ve adapted beautifully to both. These tough little flowers handle a wide temperature range, thriving in USDA zones 4-9. High humidity doesn’t seem to bother them much, though I do notice they prefer good air circulation. In my more humid garden areas, I space plants a bit farther apart to prevent fungal issues from developing. Cold hardiness depends somewhat on the variety. My Lance-leaf coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata) bounces back reliably after harsh winters, while some of the more tender varieties benefit from a light mulch around their crown when temperatures drop below freezing. Fertilizer One thing I absolutely love about coreopsis is how little fertilizer they need. These aren’t heavy feeders at all. I apply a thin layer of compost around the plants in early spring, and that’s usually enough to keep them blooming happily all season. If your soil is particularly poor, a light application of balanced, slow-release fertilizer in spring can help. I use a 10-10-10 formula at half the recommended strength. Anything stronger promotes lush foliage at the expense of flowers – I learned this the hard way one year when I got enthusiastic with the fertilizer and ended up with gorgeous leaves but few blooms. The best approach I’ve found is to keep it simple. These native prairie plants evolved to thrive without much pampering, and they seem happiest when I respect that heritage. Types of Coreopsis Coreopsis Varieties I Can’t Get Enough Of I’ve been growing Coreopsis for years, and I’m always amazed by how many different varieties there are to choose from. These cheerful flowers, also known as tickseed, have become staples in my garden. Let me walk you through some of my absolute favorite types. Threadleaf Coreopsis The delicate, feathery foliage of threadleaf varieties like ‘Moonbeam’ and ‘Zagreb’ gives my garden beds a soft, airy texture. I love how ‘Moonbeam’ produces masses of pale yellow flowers that seem to float above the foliage. ‘Zagreb’ is a bit more compact with brighter yellow blooms that keep coming all summer long. I’ve found these to be some of the most reliable perennials in my garden, returning year after year with minimal fuss. Large-Flowered Coreopsis When I want bold impact, I turn to large-flowered varieties like ‘Early Sunrise’ and ‘Sunfire’. Their semi-double blooms measure up to 2 inches across and create a sea of sunshine in my borders. ‘Early Sunrise’ earned its name honestly – it’s always the first to bloom in my garden, sometimes as early as late spring. ‘Sunfire’ has become my go-to for its striking yellow petals with burgundy centers that pollinators can’t resist. Plains Coreopsis For my annual beds, I rely on Plains Coreopsis (Coreopsis tinctoria). These quick-growing beauties reach about 2 feet tall and produce loads of small, daisy-like flowers with distinctive red centers. I started growing these from seed a few years back, and now I let them self-seed in certain areas. The bicolor varieties with yellow petals edged in mahogany create a spectacular display that costs next to nothing. Lanceleaf Coreopsis The native Lanceleaf Coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata) has earned a special place in